The only conditioning book a rock climber needs! Rock climbing is one of the most physically challenging sports, testing strength, endurance, flexibility, and stamina. Good climbers have to build and maintain each of these assets. This is the first-ever book to provide climbers of all ages and experience with the knowledge and tools to design and follow a comprehensive, personalized exercise program. Part One covers the basics of physical conditioning and goal-setting. Part Two takes readers through warm-up and flexibility routines, entry-level strength training, weight loss tips, and fifteen core-conditioning exercises. Part Three details climbing-specific conditioning, with twenty exercises to target specific muscles of the fingers, arms and upper torso to develop power and endurance. An entire chapter focuses on the antagonist muscle groups that help provide balance and stability, and prevent muscle injury. This section also has a chapter devoted to stamina conditioning, increasing the climber’s endurance at high altitudes. Part Four shows how to put together a customized training program to suit the climber’s needs. The book includes workout sheets for Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced skill levels, tips for children and those over age fifty, secrets of good nutrition and an insider’s take on avoiding injuries. Eric Hörst is a performance coach who has helped thousands of climbers. His published works include Learning to Climb Indoors, Training for Climbing, and How to Climb 5.12. He lives in Lancaster, Pennsylvania.

Maximum Climbing

by Eric van der Horst

Published 1 January 2010
The definitive resource to brain-training for climbing-by an internationally recognized expert As physical as climbing is, it is even more mental. Ultimately, people climb with their minds-hands and feet are merely extensions of their thoughts and will. Becoming a master climber requires that you first master your mind. In Maximum Climbing, America's best-selling author on climbing performance presents a climber's guide to the software of the brain-one that will prove invaluable whether one's preference is bouldering, sport climbing, traditional climbing, alpine climbing, or mountaineering. Eric Hoerst brings unprecedented clarity to the many cognitive and neurophysical aspects of climbing and dovetails this information into a complete program, setting forth three stages of mental training that correspond to beginner, intermediate, and elite levels of experience and commitment-the ideal template to build upon to personalize one's goals through years of climbing to come.

The essential handbook for every beginner, Learning to Climb Indoors is the most complete book available on indoor climbing.Veteran climber, performance coach, and renowned author Eric J. Hörst gives you all the information you need to get started and have fun. From what to expect on your first visit to a climbing gym to in-depth instruction on climbing techniques, tactics, strategy, and taking your indoor climbing skills outside, this guide will take you through your first few days—and years—as a climber. Hörst covers basic gear, fundamental safety techniques, and the importance of personal one-on-one instruction at the gym. Chapters on mental control, physical conditioning, and self-assessment round out the training. And as you progress, advice on advanced techniques and tactics will help you conquer the steepest walls. This revised and fully updated edition includes a new section on youth climbing as well as more information on taking your indoor-climbing skills outside onto real rock. Full color photos round out the package to make Learning to Climb Indoors an indispensable resource for new climbers.

How to Climb 5.12

by Eric van der Horst

Published 1 January 2011
The essential manual for intermediate climbers who want to make the jump to advanced climbing ability-with new color photos In the sport of rock climbing, 5.12 is a magical grade of difficulty-the rating that separates intermediate climbers from the sport's elite. Many intermediate climbers mistakenly believe that climbs of 5.12 difficulty are simply beyond their reach. This revised and updated edition of Eric Horst's best-selling instructional manual dispels that myth, and shows average climbers how they can achieve heights previously considered the exclusive domain of the full-time climber. How to Climb 5.12 is a performance guidebook that will help climbers attain the most rapid gains in climbing ability possible. Hoerst provides streamlined tips and suggestions on such critical issues as cutting-edge strength training, mental training, and climbing strategy. How to Climb 5.12 is the perfect manual to help intermediate climbers quickly along the road to mastery.

Training for Climbing

by Eric van der Horst

Published 16 September 2008
Increase your strength, power, skill, and focus to maximize your climbing performance.
Praise for Training for Climbing
"Training for Climbing is a great resource. Whether you're just starting out or already ticking 5.13, you'll find valuable information here to help you climb harder. This is the most complete and up-to-date training guide available."
-Rock and Ice magazine

Drawing on the latest climbing research, this third edition of the international best-selling Training for Climbing presents a comprehensive, evidence-based program for improving climbing performance. With the unique perspective of a veteran climber, researcher, and coach, Eric Hoerst blends leading edge sport science with his decades of climbing and coaching experience to create a content-rich text packed with practical how-to and what-to-do information.
A few of the new topics explored include:
* Energy system training to develop greater strength, power-endurance, and aerobic endurance.
* Recalibrating the brain's central governor for higher power output and stamina.
* Daily Undulating Periodization as an effective method of on-season programming.
* "Training zones" for rock climbers-the secret to truly effective training!
* Stabilizer training to improve arm power and reduce risk of shoulder injury.

Also included are expanded chapters on developing strength, power, and endurance in the crucial finger flexor and pulling muscles, as well as a must-read chapter on developing exceptional core strength. Hoerst completes his coaching with dedicated chapters on technique and mental training, performance nutrition, accelerating recovery, and injury prevention. The book's 300-plus pages of expert instruction make for the most advanced and complete book of its type!

Eric Hoerst is an internationally renowned author and a climber of forty years. As a researcher and coach, Hoerst has written hundreds of articles and coached thousands of climbers from around the world. He owns the popular website Training4Climbing.com.

The only conditioning book a rock climber needs!

Rock climbing is one of the most physically challenging sports, testing strength, endurance, flexibility, and stamina. Good climbers have to build and maintain each of these assets. This is revised and updated edition of the classic book, Conditioning for Climbers, provides climbers of all ages and experience with the knowledge and tools to design and follow a comprehensive, personalized exercise program.