This complex look at surf culture explores its inherent masculinity, as well as the violence, racism, misogyny, turf wars, and homophobia that are as much a part of the sport as ocean swells. Both a touching memoir and a sharp social critique, this analysis reveals the unwritten codes that rule all aspects of a surfer's life - from body image and national identity to politics and friendship - and the issues that have imprinted themselves on Australian beaches since the Cronulla riots.
Salmon Creek California (Beach Notebook Series - Volume 2, #2)
by The Lip Beach Journals
Over the last forty years, surfing has emerged from its Pacific islands origins to become a global industry. Since its beginnings more than a thousand years ago, surfing's icon has been the surf- board-its essential instrument, the point of physical connection between human and nature, body and wave. Based on research in three important surfing locations-Hawai'i, southern California, and southeastern Australia-this is the first book to trace the surf- board from regional craft tradition to its k...
Laird Hamilton has been hailed as the world's greatest big-wave surfer. His first book, Force of Nature, allows readers a rare glimpse inside the unique philosophy that has created his circumstances, and not the other way around. After all, this is a man whose biological father abandoned him shortly after he was born; whose first job was working on a pig far; who dropped out of school in eleventh grade. And then the career decision: surfer. Though earning enough to pay the rent as any kind of su...
Mindful Thoughts for Surfers explores how meditative a life on the surfboard can be. These 25 insightful musings will inspire beginners and experts alike. The heightened attention in surfing and the meditative nature of water facilitate the perfect opportunity to practise mindfulness. Sam Bleakley is an international longboard champion and advocate for all forms of waveriding. With an interest in Buddhism and Taoism, he discusses: Blue mindfulness - identifying with the oceanThe connection to...
Wave Waves Ocean Water Surf Surfing Surfer Marine Biology Sea Swim Life Guard
by Wild Pages Press